A hand of Seven-Card Stud unfolds as follows:
In total there are five betting rounds (one after each card is dealt, except the very first face-down card). Because Stud is almost always a fixed-limit game, the bet size doubles on the later streets. For example, in a $5/$10 Stud game the small bet ($5) is used on third and fourth streets, and the big bet ($10) on fifth through seventh streets. This progression rewards aggressive play with strong hands early but also makes it inexpensive to chase draws to the river.
Stud rewards strong and coordinated three-card starters. Because many players often see the flop (all five cards) in limit poker, a mere middling hand can be caught by draws. The very best possible start is already flopped trips (three of a kind on third street), but that only happens roughly once every 400–500 hands. In practice, look for:
A pair of Aces or Kings on third street is very strong, especially if your downcard is also high. Such hands often end up two-pair or better. Remember, though, that high pairs have less edge than in Hold’em – AA vs KK is only about a 2:1 favorite in Stud.
A pair with an Ace-King, Ace-Queen or Ace-Jack kicker (e.g. A♦A♣K♠) is excellent: it already beats any pair of Kings or lower, and it can make top two-pair or better. Similarly, three big cards to a straight or flush (e.g. K♠Q♠J♠ or A♥J♦T♥) give lots of outs. Suited A-K-X or high connected cards are especially good because hitting your draw often yields the best possible hand.
Three to the nut flush or a broadway straight draw with high cards is playable – even if you are behind, hitting the nut flush or highest straight wins. For example, 9♠8♠7♠ (with an Ace or King as one of the hole cards) is much stronger than 9♣8♣7♣ with low gap cards.
Generally fold weak, unpaired hands with no high card. Also beware “second-best” draws. For instance, having a three-card spade flush draw that isn’t to the nut (like K-high when Ace is out) is dangerous if two of those spades are already on the table. In short, trashy combinations rarely pay off in Stud – be disciplined about mucking ragged hands.
In Stud the board is key. The same three cards can be strong or useless depending on what’s already out. For example, J♠T♠7♠ is a strong draw – except if the upcards show three other spades or multiple cards you need, in which case your flush and straight outs are dead.
Always compare your hole cards to the visible upcards. If an opponent is showing an Ace and two more spades, folding K♠Q♠9♠ becomes wise because your straight and flush outs are gone.
Third street is the first chance to bet after the initial deal. The bring-in player acts first (or “completes” to a full bet), and then action moves clockwise. Here is what to think about on third street:
Play strong only: Only enter the pot with a hand that has a real chance. Great scenarios include high pairs or strong draws as noted above. Weak draws or one-gap, off-suit hands should be folded immediately.
Use position wisely: If you are late to act (many players have folded before you) and someone opens with a relatively low exposed card, you can sometimes reraise with a higher upcard to isolate the pot. For example, holding (7♦7♥) A♠, if a player with K♣ opens and everyone else folds, you could reraise two bets.
Bluff selectively: A third-street raise can also be a bluff if you have a decent “story” (like showing a big upcard in late position). The antes + bring-in create a sizable pot early, so stealing with nothing but an Ace showing (and weaker cards behind you) is a common play. Only bluff for pot worth and when you read weakness behind you.
Always remember: on third street you have the least information (only one upcard each), so err on the side of caution. If you can’t pair or straighten/flush out, fold and wait for a better deal.
Once fourth street is dealt, players have two face-up cards. On this street, the small bet limit still applies. Key ideas for fourth street:
Aggression for a “free” turn card: If you have a strong draw or even a weak made hand, raising now can be a great strategy. By taking the lead (and possibly forcing others out), you may end up seeing the fifth street (more expensive betting) essentially for free or at the cost of a small bet.
Protect big pairs: If you started with a pocket pair, consider continuing aggressively with it. Even if your pair didn’t improve, you might still be ahead. For instance, with K♥K♠ showing, a bet now is often profitable because many opponents will fold their draws or smaller pairs.
Caution on draws: If you have a flush or straight draw, recognize that now there are two cards still to come (one face-up, one down). A four-card flush on fourth street (i.e. hitting your flush draw) makes you a big favorite.
Fourth street can set the tone for the hand. Use it to build pots with strong draws, protect made hands, or blunt opponents’ bluff attempts. A well-timed raise here often pays off down the line.
Fifth street is when the big bet kicks in. By now the pot may be sizable, and many hands are drawing thin. Here are guidelines:
Value bet strong hands. If you have improved (e.g. hit a pair or better), favor betting for value.
Play the situation vs bluffs: If an aggressive player who has been bluffing checks to you on fifth, this is your cue to bet. For example, if you called an Ace-up bluff on fourth and he checks the fifth, you should bet any hand – many bluffs will fold to a bet. This move often wins the pot outright.
Don’t chase dead draws: At this point, if you haven’t paired up, be honest with yourself. A single pair or less is often behind now. Folding marginal draws can save you two big bets (on fifth and sixth streets) if you miss. Only continue a draw if you believe it’s effectively the nut draw or the pot odds justify it.
In short, on fifth street you want to be either best hand or have clear outs. Don’t let a big pot cost you with a worthless hand.
On sixth street you receive the fourth face-up card. Only two cards remain to come after this. Key points:
Quit weak draws: If you’re chasing a flush or straight, only continue if it can win. For instance, if you’re on a flush draw but not the nut (and an opponent already shows a higher flush draw), folding is wise. You’re often “drawing dead” if any higher or better draw exists.
Automatic pots: Often on sixth street, the hand goes to showdown, so many players just call or check. If your draw hits (e.g. you’ve made a flush or straight), you should bet/raise for value because you are probably way ahead. If it misses and you have nothing, fold.
Pot control: If you have a medium-strength hand (say two pair) and think you might be behind, you can check-call smaller bets to avoid bloating the pot. Remember that the final street is only one bet, so losing one more bet on the river is cheaper than letting the pot get too big now.
Generally, on sixth street you can be sure one more card follows – so use the extra information. Avoid “chasing dead.” Folding now can often save you twice the future bet.
The seventh street is the last chance to bet. Each player gets a fifth face-down card, and one final bet is made (big bet size). At this point:
Watch for tells: Many players inadvertently reveal their strength with their behavior. For example, a player might shuffle or spread their cards if they’re excited about a monster they just hit.
Use pot odds: Because the pot is usually very large by now, calling with a marginal hand can be correct. If the pot is, say, 10 times the final bet, calling any hand that has about a 1/11 chance of winning is +EV.
River bluffs: If you see a scary board (e.g. four to a flush showing on your upcards) and your opponent bets, consider a bluff or a raise if you think they missed. Similarly, if you have a near-nut hand (like the second-best flush) and bet, many weaker hands might call hoping you’re bluffing.
In tournament play, river decisions can also be influenced by payout structure. Many players will call even slim chances when the pot is massive. Always do the math: often you’ll find calling a large pot with a decent one-pair or draw hand is correct simply because of the odds.
Stud is all about information. Unlike Hold’em, every upcard and every fold matters. Keep these tips in mind:
Track upcards and folded cards. Memorize what’s out there.
If a card you need appears face-up or in the muck, adjust. For example, if your goal is to hit trip 8’s, and all four 8’s have already appeared in others’ upcards, concede the hand. Every card dealt in Stud reduces uncertainty.
Narrow hand ranges: Combine what you see with how players bet. If an opponent raises third street with K♠ showing, he likely has a pair of Kings (not a random bluff). Good stud players constantly update their reads on each new street.
Use your upcards as a story. You can represent strong hands by the way you play. For example, suppose you start with Q♠9♠5♦ (only Q♠ showing on third street) and by sixth street you’ve exposed four spades. An opponent might reasonably think you hit that flush. At that point, a bluff raise can make many hands fold.
Stealing the pot. Don’t hesitate to “steal” when the situation is right. On third street, raising with a naked Ace (or even a high card like King) when everyone behind you has low cards can win the pot immediately.
Later, if you’re in late position and see weakness, you can bet representing a monster. Just ensure your betting pattern makes sense.
Bluffing in Stud can be very profitable because you have a built-in story (your upcards). A well-timed bluff on fourth or fifth street, especially if done after giving the impression of a strong draw, can pick up big pots. Remember that other players have limited information too – they see your cards but don’t know your downcards. If you project strength, many will fold marginal hands.
By practicing these principles, you’ll turn Stud’s complexity into a winning advantage over less-disciplined opponents. Experienced Stud players know that attention to detail – every card and every action – is the pathway to profit.
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Unlike Hold’em, Stud has no community cards. You receive your own seven cards (four face-up, three face-down), and must read exposed upcards to analyze opponents’ ranges. Stud is more information-dense and rewards observation and memory far more than Hold’em.
In Stud, discipline matters more than in most poker formats. You should prioritize:
Weak, uncoordinated hands should be instantly mucked on third street.
It’s essential. Every upcard and every fold gives you information. Knowing which cards are live drastically affects the value of your draws and your opponents’ likelihood of improvement. Strong Stud players constantly track:
Bluffs work best when your upcards tell a convincing story. For example:
Third street (stealing antes) and fifth street (big bet pressure) are the most profitable bluff spots.
Fold whenever your draw is:
